The Gordion Knot and King Midas

History and legend came to life for us yesterday as we visited a little village, Gordion, about an hour and a half outside Ankara. It now has only about 500 inhabitants, but it has been continuously inhabited since the Bronze Age (3000 BC). One of the earliest Phrygian kings, Gordios, tied his ox cart with such an elaborate knot that it became legend that whoever could untie the knot would become master of Asia. The knot was kept on display in the temple, and when Alexander the Great and his armies marched across the Anatolian steppe in 334 BC, he went to the temple to untie the knot. He attempted to untie the knot but was unsuccessful. In an impatient rage, he took his sword and slashed the knot. He did go on to conquer the Persian Empire and become master of Asia, but sages considered that his untimely death at age 33 was his fate for his impatience with the knot.

The burial mound of King Midas is also in Gordion. He was a true historical Phrygian king who reigned during the 8th century BC, but there are legends associated with his name, including "the golden touch." We are pictured here with our Turkish friend, Meric, in front of his burial mound. There is a fine museum with Assyrian, Hittite, Phrygian, Lydian, Greek, Hellenistic, Roman and Slejik Turk treasures from nearby excavations. The coins found here indicate this was an important commercial and military center for many centuries.

Now the area is surrounded by grassy plains on which hay, melons and sunflowers are grown. Gypsies work as seasonal laborers and are camped near the village.

On the way home we visited Polatli, site of an important military battle in the Turkish War of Independence. The Greeks had captured the city, only an hour from Turkey's capital, Ankara. Ataturk commanded his troops not just to fight but to die for their country, and they were able to turn the Greeks back. There is a dramatic monument on a hilltop with a moving museum.

What a great outing!